21 December 2024

 
The glorious pool view at the Anse Chastenet
Simply Sublime!
This St Lucia resort has no TVs, air-con or phones, but Mum and I just loved it, says Marina Fogle
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Christmas, my sun-loving mother opened a small box. Inside was an airline luggage tag. We were off to St Lucia together. Specifically, to adults-only Anse Chastanet, in the jungle on the west coast near Soufriere.

The rooms are decorated with native fabrics and the staff are resplendent in traditional dress, with small numbers in their hats that reflect their marital status; one for single and looking; two for engaged; three for happily married. The hotel sits on a steep hill. On one side, rooms look over a perfectly formed sandy cove; on the other, the view is the Pitons – dramatic mountains that rise from the sea like prehistoric fangs.
At
The dramatic Pitons
for us to get up and make the most of every moment. A gentle routine emerged. After breakfast in the treehouse restaurant, I'd spend a sweaty hour exploring the jungle trails behind the neighbouring beach, Anse Mammet. That took care of any guilt about spending the rest of the day horizontal. My mother normally loves nothing more than exploring local markets, finding a great fishmonger and creating abundant feasts for her extended family. Here, she had little choice but to relax.

One afternoon we boarded a boat for a snorkelling safari at the foot of the Pitons. Julia, our guide, led us above the underwater rock formations, pointing to creatures hiding in dark crevices or camouflaged in the coral. She taught us how to dive to the shallow sea floor to get a better look at the shy puffer fish and pointed out a turtle drifting past. We ate our way through the menus of the different restaurants. Our favourite evening was spent at Apsara, on the torchlit beach, the waves a few metres from our table.

The food is a fusion of Caribbean Indian, and utterly delicious. Days of eating, sleeping, swimming, snorkelling and reading passed in a flurry. The bond between us has always been strong, but a whole week together in glorious surroundings was a rare treat. My mother said it was one of the best holidays she's ever had – and I don't think she was just being polite.


Original article published in Sep 2015. All info and prices correct at time of publication.
The ethos is to embrace the outdoors: there is no glass, rather shutters that allow in the gentle breeze. No phones, no TVs, no aircon, not even any curtains. We were woken each morning by the jungle cacophony, as though the birds were screaming
"My mother said it was one of the best holidays she's ever had."
 
 
 
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